My current affordable collection of Chronographs and Watches...
I really never wore a watch at any point in my life, but one
day in 2022 I randomly decided to research how a chronograph
worked. This led to a multi-day dive into a horological rabbit
hole where I learned about the history of mechanical watch making,
the different types of watches, the "quartz crisis"
and resulting changes to the industry and more. And, of course,
I learned about famous and historically relevant specific watches
and chronographs.
One day a few weeks later, I ordered a bunch of cheap "homage"
watches on Amazon from Pagani Design, a Chinese company specializing
in making near exact copies of famous chronographs and watches
(though they are not considered fakes as Pagani Design does not
try to pass them off as anything other than Pagani Design watches).
These were mainly purchased to be used as "conversation
pieces" and I have not worn them very often - maybe a handful
of times and usually the Omega Speedmaster copy.
To "legitimize" my colllection, I then focused on
acquring respectable affordable watches. Some of them might still
be considered "homage" watches, but homages that were
insirpired by famous pieces and not direct copies thus they had
their own cache. This includes some very well respected pieces
with legitimate heritage such as the Citizen Pro Master NY0040
diver and the Seiko SKX007 diver. I also splurged a little on
a pre-owned Tag Heuer Carrera that is my only fully mechanical
Swiss chronograph. Even though Tag Heuer is somewhat polorazing
amongst watch snobs, it is still a legitimate luxury Swiss brand
with a true racing heritage and because of my automotive enthusiasm
this was the chronograph that originally ignited my curisoity.
And then I subsequently added a couple of respectable Swiss Automatic
divers like the Hamilton and the Certina. With the exception
of the cheap Pagani Designs, nearly all of the watches below
were acquired pre-owned, manyh of them are out of production
and that is where the value is.
(I also acquired tools and knowledge to size and swap out
bracelets and straps of all types as well as to open case backs
to service quartz batteries as needed)
|
Watch |
Reference |
Case Diameter |
Band Width |
Type |
Movement |
Glass |
Water Resistance |
Country of Origin |
Tag Heuer Carrera Chronograph |
CV2014-2
My first fully mechanical Swiss chronograph |
41mm |
20mm |
- Mechanical/
- Automatic
|
ETA Valjoux 7750
- 25 Jewels
- 48 hour reserve
- 28,800 bph (4hz)
- 8 ticks/second
- Hacking? Yes
- Three-plane cam chronograph
|
Sapphire |
100m |
Swiss |
Hamilton Khaki X-Wind Chronograph |
H77616533
Swiss fully mechanical Chronograph Aviation
/ Pilot's watch with crosswind calcuation on bezel |
44mm |
22mm |
- Mechanical/
- Automatic
|
- Hamilton H-21
- (Based on ETA 7750)
-
- 25 Jewels
- 60 hour reserve
- 28,800 bph (4hz)
- 8 ticks/second
- Hacking? Yes
|
Sapphire |
100m |
Swiss |
- Certina DS Action Dive Watch
|
C013.407.11.041.00
- Swiss mechanical semi-luxury true ISO certified
dive watch w/ dive extension clasp
|
43mm |
21mm |
- Mechanical/
- Automatic
|
ETA 2824-2
- 25 Jewels
- 38 hour reserve
- 28,800 bph (4hz)
- 8 ticks/second
- Hacking? Yes
-
|
Sapphire |
200m |
Swiss |
- Hamilton Navy Scuba Dive Watch
|
H82335131
Swiss mechanical semi-luxury dive watch. Beautifully
finished, but at 100m WR more of a 'desk diver' |
41mm |
20mm |
- Mechanical/
- Automatic
|
- Hamilton H-10
- (based on ETA C07.611)
-
- aka 'Powermatic 80'
- 25 Jewels
- 80 hour reserve
- 21,600 bph (3hz)
- 6 ticks/second
- Hacking? Yes
|
Sapphire |
100m |
Swiss |
Seiko 5 Sports GMT 'Batman'  |
SSK003K1
An affordable fully mechanical "office"
GMT. Black and Blue bezel remincient of Rolex Batman GMT. |
42.5mm |
21mm |
- Mechanical/
- Automatic
|
Seiko 4R34 (GMT)
- 24 Jewels
- 41 hour reserve
- 21,600 bph (3hz)
- 6 ticks/second
- Hacking? Yes
- GMT (24 hr hand)
|
Hardlex |
100m |
Japan |
Seiko SKX007 Dive Watch  |
SKX007K2
- Legendary affordable mechanical diver. As
a nod to its large modding community, I put on a silver bezel
to mix up the look.
|
42mm |
22mm |
- Mechanical/
- Automatic
|
Seiko 7S26
- 21 Jewels
- 41 hour reserve
- 21,600 bph (3hz)
- 6 ticks/second
- Hacking? No
- No Handwinding
|
Hardlex |
200m |
Japan |
Citizen Pro Master Dive Watch |
NY0040-50e
Another classic and mechanical 200m real certified
diver! Issued to Italian Navy in the late '90s - the Marina Militare. |
42mm
(wears smaller because case is wider than
black part of bezel) |
20mm |
- Mechanical/
- Automatic
|
Citizen Miyota Calibre 8200
- 21 Jewels
- 42 hour reserve
- 21,600 bph (3hz)
- 6 ticks/second
- Hacking? Yes
-
|
Mineral |
200m |
Japan |
Seiko SSB031 Chronograph |
SSB031
Popular discontinued Seiko. I have two of
these, one on bracelet, the other on one of three quick release
straps - black rubber, black leather and brown leather both w/
white stitching. It has an Omega Speedmaster aka 'Speedy' vibe. |
40mm |
20mm |
Quartz |
- Seiko 6T63
- 'Mechaquartz'
-
- ('Mechaquartz' means the chrono function
is part mechanical, giving smooth sweep of chrono second hand)
|
Hardlex |
100m |
Japan |
Seiko Prospex Land Solar Chronograph |
- SSC705P1
- Compass Bezel
I keep this one on a black rubber strap.
My "sports" watch for hiking and outdoor use because
of compass bezel, solar power and 200m water resistance.
|
44mm |
22mm |
Solar Quartz |
Seiko V176 |
Hardlex |
200m |
Japan |
Seiko SSB355P1 Chronograph |
SSB355P1
My other large sports chronograph, this one
with a sliver tachymeter bezel. Very cool detail on face despite
being quartz. |
45mm |
22mm |
Quartz |
- Seiko 8T63
- 'Mechaquartz'
-
- ('Mechaquartz' means the chrono function
is part mechanical, giving smooth sweep of chrono second hand)
|
Hardlex |
100m |
Japan |
Casio Edifice Slim Chronograph |
EFSS570D
- Styled to give an AP Royal Oak vibe without
being a direct homage.
|
44mm |
22mm |
Solar Quartz |
Casio Solar 5634 |
Sapphire |
100m |
Japan |
- Casio G-Steel GSTB400
|
GST-B400
Evolution of the famed G-Shock with more upscale
materials such as the stainless steel bezel and carbon fiber
case. |
46mm |
28mm |
Solar Quartz |
Casio Solar 5657 |
Mineral |
200m |
Japan |
Rotary Chronospeed  |
GS0335119
Aviation or Pilot's watch w/ slide rule calcuator
bezel
I keep this one on a black leather strap w/
white stitching. A Breitling Navitimer homage. |
42mm |
22mm |
Quartz |
Miyota 0s20 |
Acrylic |
100m |
Swiss |
Citizen Pro Master World Time GMT |
BJ7100-82E
I keep this one on a perforated black rubber
strap, a "traveler's" style GMT with rotating world
timer bezel and 200m water resistance. |
41mm |
22mm |
Solar Quartz |
Citizen Eco Drive B877 |
Mineral |
200m |
Japan |
Pagani Design 'Submariner' |
PD1639
Rolex Submariner diver "homage" - mechanical
movement.
The Submariner may be the most famous dive
watch in history and was worn by Sean Connery in early Bond films. |
40mm |
20mm |
- Mechanical/
- Automatic
|
Seiko NH35A
- 24 Jewels
- 41 hour reserve
- 21,600 bph (3hz)
- 6 ticks/second
- Hacking? Yes
|
Sapphire |
100m |
China
Japanese Movement |
Pagani Design 'Seamaster' |
PD1661
Omega Seamster diver "homage" - mechanical
movement.
The Seamaster is the second most famous dive
watch, also worn by later Bond actors in Bond films. |
42mm |
20mm |
- Mechanical/
- Automatic
|
Seiko NH35A
- 24 Jewels
- 41 hour reserve
- 21,600 bph (3hz)
- 6 ticks/second
- Hacking? Yes
|
Sapphire |
100m |
China
Japanese Movement |
Pagani Design 'Speedmaster' |
PD1701
Omega Speedmaster 'Moonwatch' "homage".
The Speedmaster was the first watch to pass
NASA tests and was famously worn by astronauts on the moon. |
40mm |
20mm |
Quartz |
Seiko VK63 'Mechaquartz'
('Mechaquartz' means the chrono function is
part mechanical, giving smooth sweep of chrono second hand) |
Sapphire |
100m |
China
Japanese Movement |
Pagani Design 'Daytona' |
PD1644
Rolex Daytona "homage".
The most famous chronograph designed for auto
racing. |
40mm |
20mm |
Quartz |
Seiko VK63 'Mechaquartz'
('Mechaquartz' means the chrono function is
part mechanical, giving smooth sweep of chrono second hand) |
Sapphire |
100m |
China
Japanese Movement |
Benyar Chronograph |
BY-5140-L
Super cheap throw-away watch originally to mimic
a Tag Heuer Carrera. I actually like the way it wears which annoys
me because its so cheap. |
44mm |
22mm |
Quartz |
Seiko? |
Hardlex |
30m |
China
Japanese Movement |